Where to stay in Edinburgh: Old Town, New Town and beyond

Edinburgh is one of the most dramatic cities in Britain. A castle sits on an extinct volcanic crag above the centre, medieval closes tumble down towards a royal palace, and an orderly grid of Georgian streets runs alongside. It is compact enough to explore on foot, and choosing where to stay is mostly about the atmosphere you want and the time of year you visit. When you are ready to compare places, browse hotels and guest houses in Edinburgh.

The Old Town

The Old Town follows the spine of the Royal Mile, the sequence of streets running from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the monarch's official residence in Scotland. Along the way are St Giles' Cathedral, the Scottish Parliament at the foot of the hill, and dozens of narrow closes and wynds leading off on either side. Staying here puts you in the middle of the history, with pubs, restaurants and the Grassmarket close at hand. The Old Town and New Town together were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, and walking between them is part of the pleasure of a visit.

The Old Town is busy, particularly in summer, and some streets are steep and cobbled. If you are travelling with heavy luggage or have limited mobility, check how close a property is to a taxi drop-off point.

The New Town

Laid out from the late eighteenth century, the New Town is one of the finest examples of Georgian town planning anywhere. Princes Street, with its gardens and views up to the castle, forms its southern edge, and George Street and Queen Street run parallel to it. The streets are wide and elegant, the shopping is good, and many hotels and guest houses occupy grand townhouses. It is a calmer, more polished base than the Old Town, yet only a few minutes' walk away. Edinburgh Waverley station sits in the valley between the two, so the New Town is convenient for arrivals by train.

Stockbridge and Dean Village

North of the New Town, Stockbridge has a village feel, with independent shops, cafés, a Sunday market and the Water of Leith walkway running through it. Dean Village, a former milling settlement tucked into the river valley nearby, is one of the most photographed corners of the city. The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh is a short walk away. Stockbridge suits couples and repeat visitors who want somewhere local-feeling but still walkable to the centre.

Leith

Edinburgh's port, Leith, has its own identity and a strong food scene along the Shore. The former royal yacht Britannia is moored at Ocean Terminal and is open to visitors. The tram line extension means Leith is now connected directly to the city centre and onward to the airport, which makes it a practical and often better-value choice.

Southside, Bruntsfield and Marchmont

South of the Old Town, the Southside and the Victorian tenement neighbourhoods of Bruntsfield and Marchmont border the Meadows, a large open park. These areas are popular with students and residents, with plenty of cafés and guest houses. Arthur's Seat and Holyrood Park, the hilly green expanse on the eastern side of the centre, are easy to reach from here for a morning climb with views over the city and the Firth of Forth.

Timing your visit

Edinburgh in August hosts the Edinburgh International Festival and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, one of the largest arts festivals in the world, along with the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo at the castle. The city is at its liveliest, and accommodation is in very high demand, so book as early as you can and expect minimum-stay rules at some places. Hogmanay, the New Year celebration, is another peak. Spring and autumn are quieter and can be wonderful for walking the city. Winter days are short this far north, but the Christmas markets and cosy pubs make up for it.

Getting there and around

Edinburgh Waverley is served by direct trains from London King's Cross along the East Coast Main Line, via York and Newcastle, and from Glasgow and the north. Edinburgh Airport is linked to the centre by tram and by bus. Once you arrive, you will walk most places, with Lothian buses and the tram for longer hops. Driving in the centre is rarely worth it, so if you are touring Scotland by car, consider collecting it as you leave the city.

Using Edinburgh as a gateway

Many visitors combine Edinburgh with a trip north. Our Scottish Highlands guide covers Inverness, Aviemore, Fort William and the routes between them. Glasgow is under an hour away by train, and you can find places to stay on our Glasgow page. Travelling up from England, York makes an excellent stop on the same rail line, as described in our York guide.

Choosing the right place

Edinburgh has a long tradition of guest houses, many in Victorian villas in residential districts such as Newington and along the main roads into the city. They can be good value and often come with a cooked Scottish breakfast. Central hotels give you the views and the convenience. Read our guide to guest houses versus hotels if you are unsure, then browse Edinburgh listings and contact the property directly to ask about rooms, breakfast and parking.